not yet friends

That miniature owner really wants to be friends. Me, I’m not so sure. For a long time it was easy to avoid him. I just got up and left whenever the big owners brought him around. But now it’s harder because the little guy has learned to use this contraption to chase me all over the house himself.

Luckily I just discovered a solution. If I just go down this step, one of the big owners will run over and keep the little one from following me.

Phew. I’m safe from having to hang out with him for now.

Posted in Abbey Q. Howley, Baby | 1 Comment

vegetables

The good news is that you can find just about every vegetable you’d be looking for here in Benin. You can even some you’re not looking for. Like this, for instance:

What exactly is it? I have no idea.

The bad news is that before eating said vegetables, you must prepare a mixture of one gallon distilled water & one tablespoon bleach, then let the vegetables soak for 15 minutes, then rinse them off with distilled water.

It’s not a huge deal, but it’s one extra step that combined with other necessary extra steps, can make preparing dinner exhausting.

Yet another reason why we are very glad to have hired a cook!

Posted in Benin, food | 4 Comments

it’s all here

The last of our stuff has arrived! It’s been a long time coming.

Both the air shipment (UAB) and sea shipment (HHE) that we sent from DC were waiting for us when we got here, which meant the journey took less than six weeks. Our car arrived seven weeks after we sent it. But our last shipment of HHE — the stuff we packed up from our Brooklyn apartment when we joined the Foreign Service a year and a half ago, and that’s been sitting in storage in Virginia ever since — trailed behind everything else for some inexplicable reason. Fifteen weeks later, it’s finally here.

Of all of the shipments to arrive slowly, I’m glad it was this one. After all, if we’ve managed without this stuff for a year and a half, how important can it really be?

Last time we saw our stuff this guy didn’t even exist yet, and now he’s big enough to kick back and watch some TV!

Still, we’re glad to have it. Now that everything’s here we can finally start making this house feel like a home. That room that we’ve been using exclusively for boxes from Amazon.com purchases? Now it’ll be another guest bedroom, thanks to our new bed and dresser set. That other room that we’ve been using just as a storage place for Flynn’s pack ‘n play? Now, a den complete with couch and TV. Plus, now that all our wall decor is here, we can finally figure out where to hang everything.

We’re so excited about getting things set up that we decided to spend our upcoming three-day weekend unpacking rather than vacationing. Are we nuts? Maybe. But the beach will still be there in November when a bunch more three-day weekends await us.

Posted in Benin, FS Life | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

a helping hand

When people found out we were coming to Benin, one of the first things they would ask was whether we were going to hire household help. After all, help here was inexpensive and our house would be bigger than anything we’d had before (our Brooklyn apartment could nearly fit in our bathroom here). But like many others before us, we thought hiring help seemed a little indulgent – a little unnecessary.

Then we found out I would be working and Flynn would be coming, so we knew we at least needed a nanny. And we thought that would be it. The nanny could even do some light cleaning and laundry. There was no way we needed more help than that.

Then we realized how difficult some everyday things we were used to in New York and Washington could be in Cotonou. Need to buy soda? The best place is to buy it is a small shack about two miles away. Need cooking staples? Forget about going to the expensive supermarket near our house. Need spices? Cleaning supplies? Poultry? Vegetables? Start hunting around town. Doing all of this after a long day of work and with a small baby to care for quickly became overwhelming.

So we made the decision to find a housekeeper. At first we were convinced that three days a week was all we needed. Five days would be way too much. Then, when we couldn’t find someone for three days a week, we were willing to interview someone for two days a week. We still only wanted someone part time. When that didn’t work out either, we decided that we would interview anyone willing to work here – even full time.

And yesterday, after so much searching, we finally hired someone. She’ll be here full time and will clean, cook, run errands, do laundry, do ironing and, if our nanny is sick or on vacation, watch Flynn. She comes with good recommendations and claims to be able to cook pizza and chili. She didn’t even flinch when Abbey barked so much it made her young son cry.

It still seems strange to tell someone to do our laundry and make our bed, but we think we’ll eventually get used to it – and so will Abbey.

Posted in Benin, FS Life | 1 Comment

art market

We had some friends in town this weekend, and one thing we did was visit the artistans’ market — one of the few tourist attractions in Cotonou. It’s actually a lot bigger than I expected. This is just one of many strips of vendors:

What can you find there? Masks, statues and lots of other things carved from wood. Leather sandals. Silver and beaded jewelry. Big, colorful batiks. Musical instruments. And much more.

Andy and I kept getting separated, and I would eventually find him negotiating a price with a vendor for some object that he didn’t really even want. “I keep getting suckered in!” he’d explain.

The problem was Andy’s lack of willpower, not the vendors. They were actually very friendly and not nearly as aggressive as other places I’ve been.

We didn’t buy anything on this visit, but we look forward to returning to find things to fill the many empty spaces on our big white walls.

As for Flynn, he looks forward to returning to meet some more Beninois babies. He had staring contacts with the few whose paths we crossed on this visit.

And maybe next time he’ll get a toy, too.

Posted in Benin | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

alex vs. water

One thing you may not appreciate about your daily life back in the U.S. is turning on the faucet and getting water. Actually, we can turn on the tap and get water here, at least most of the time, making us quite lucky by West African standards.

With that water we can wash our hands, wash dishes, and so forth. But we can’t drink it. We can’t make Flynn’s bottles with it. We can’t rinse fruits and vegetables with it. We can’t brush our teeth with it. For all those things, and anything else that involves consuming the water, we must use the distiller that sits in the corner of our kitchen:

We’re lucky to have clean water available to us in our home, of course, but still, getting it requires an extra step. It’s not too cumbersome of a step for tasks completed in the kitchen since the distiller is after all right there.

For things like teeth brushing and nighttime bottles, though, dealing with the water situation can become tiresome. You have to plan your water needs ahead of time and make sure to take the appropriate amount of distiller water upstairs with you. Andy maintains that this really isn’t such a big deal. I, however, am the lazier of us two — at least when it comes to househouse tasks — and I respectfully disagree.

For Flynn’s bottles, this nightly distiller water dance is something we’ll continue to do no matter how annoying. For myself, though, sloth has recently begun to win out. I’m pretty sure I brushed my teeth with tap water in Niger, where the water situation must have been similar. People from here drink the water, so it’s not lethal or anything. What’s the worst that could happen? It takes my immune system a while to adjust? So what? Big deal.

And so… as Andy looked on with chagrin, I went for it. Yes, I began brushing my teeth with the forbidden water. That was over a week ago, and guess what? I’m still here. I haven’t even felt a tiny bit sick or anything.

Score one for me.

It may seem like just a small thing, and of course it is. But still, one less small thing to worry about is one less small thing to worry about. I’ll take it.

Posted in Benin, FS Life | Tagged , , | 6 Comments

finally, the respect i deserve

Back in my old homes of NYC and DC, I would bark at people on the street and they would just laugh at me. Laugh! Like I’m some kind of a joke!

Well, luckily here in Cotonou, life’s taken a turn for the better. Here, when I growl at people on the street, they cower. When I bark, they scurry away out of sight.

I don’t know why everyone’s finally so scared of me, like they should have been all along. I heard my owners mumbling something about rabies, but I know I don’t have that because I had to get all kinds of shots for it. So I guess it’s just that they finally realized how tough of a dog I am.

Because I am very, very tough… except when it comes to bed time.

You know who’s not scared of me, though? Those pesky salamanders. I hate them just as much as I used to hate squirrels, but they’re dumber than squirrels, I think, because they let me get much closer to them before running away. I’m going to get one of those salamanders one day, just you wait.
Posted in Abbey Q. Howley, Benin | Tagged , , | 5 Comments

at long last, we have a car

It’s been a long seven weeks without our car. As nice as other people have been about giving us rides, it’s just not the same as being able to go exactly where you want, when you want. Especially when hauling around a certain four-month-old who may or may not remain in a public-appropriate mood for as long as you’d like.

Thankfully, our car arrived yesterday! By some miracle we managed to find our way home from work without incident, and today we promptly headed off to the one place we knew how to get to: the pool.

Flynn was mostly indifferent to his first swimming experience. However, he tired himself out enough to take a nice long nap, which allowed his mom to relax poolside catching up on her People magazine reading. Thanks buddy.

In the evening we found our way out to a restaurant. (I’m sure we didn’t take the most direct path, but we got there.) And we made it home safely too, despite an unintentional detour through the airport. Oops.

And tomorrow? Our first drive out of town! Luckily we’ll be following others who know the way.

Posted in Baby, Benin | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

some thoughts on work

“I love you Mom, but you’re a mess,” I famously told her once as a child.

It was true. She was a working single parent, so she really had no time to clean. Not that she probably would have chosen to anyway. I can’t say I blame her. There are just too many better things to do, she often said, and in my adult life I’ve found more and more that I agree. It’s not just cleaning, but cooking too. Why waste your evening when take-out tastes better anyway?

Nature or nurture, I don’t know, but women in my family are not exactly domestic. And it’s probably largely for this reason that it never occurred to me to spend my working hours at home.

Cook? Clean? Look after children? No thank you. I didn’t play house as a kid; I dressed up in my mom’s work clothes and marched off to some imagery but highly important job.

They say having kids changes you. I hate clichés, but I must reluctantly admit that this one, like so many of them, turns out to be quite true.

Now that I have a kid of my own, I find that I don’t really have much of a desire to put on fancy work clothes and head off to a job, no matter how interesting or important. When I’m at the office, I miss my son. I can’t imagine any job feeling as important as being with him.

And that other stuff that comes along with staying at home? Well, suddenly that doesn’t seem so bad either. Much to my surprise, I find myself longing to spend afternoons cooking. I daydream about passing an hour at the market, baby strapped to my belly, and then another whipping up some colorful creation.

It hasn’t gotten to the point that I’m having romantic notions about cleaning. (One can only change so much.) But I might even be willing to endure some of that in order to spend hours staring at Flynn. Sleeping. Smiling. Even screaming. (He’s found his vocal cords these past few days and isn’t afraid to use them.) I’m not forgetting what it was like to take care of him full-time. I know that it was — and would be — hard. Yet I still find myself in my office sneaking glances at pictures of him, wishing I could just be home.

What’s a working mom to do?

Let me be clear about one thing: this isn’t about what I believe is best for my son. For the record, I don’t really think it particularly matters whether a parent works or not. If she stays home, kids certainly benefit from the extra quality time. If she works, kids certainly benefit from the close-up example of professional success. I’m of the mindset that if you love your kids, well, that’s really all you can do. They will become who they’re bound to become despite your best intentions.

Hopefully my son will grow up happy, but it’s not his happiness that’s troubling me right now; it’s my own. Selfishly, I want to be around him. Being around him would make me happy. Happier than I can imagine any job would. But how long would it make me happy? When he’s off at school will I grow restless? Will I want to return to the workforce?

For many parents, taking a few years off and then returning to work is an option. As an entry-level Foreign Service Office, this, as many of you know, isn’t really possible. If I were to leave now I’d have to go through the whole application process again. The State Department might not even be hiring when I was ready to return, and even if they were, I might not make the cut the next time around. Even if I did, my career would start all over at the bottom.

Largely because of the finality of walking away from my job, it’s not something I’m seriously considering at this point. But still, it’s there in the back of my mind, tempting me to a degree I never thought it would.

If I could peak at my life five years in the future, I honestly don’t know what I’d see.

Maybe Flynn will be saying, “I love you mom, but you’re too stressed.”

Or perhaps, instead, “I love you mom, but you need a hobby.”

Either way, I’m fairly sure the house will still be a mess.

(P.S. See the comments of this blog post for some interesting observations from a member of the Canadian diplomatic corps about the difference in maternity leave policy between Canada and the U.S.)

Posted in Baby, FS Life, Personal | Tagged , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

happy ramadan

Today was the final day of Ramadan, so the Embassy was closed. The streets were packed with people dressed in their finest, en route to celebrations with friends and family. Or so Andy told me after returning from his run. As for me, I didn’t leave the house. I focused on spending some much-needed time with this guy:

Happy Ramadan, indeed.

Posted in Baby, Benin | Tagged , , | 10 Comments