s.o.s.

Hi there, Abbey the beagle here. It’s been a while since you’ve heard from me, but I need to write now because something very serious has happened — my owners up and left me!

It’s been over two weeks now, and I have no idea where they are. Rumor has it that my boy owner might not be back for quite some time, and let’s be honest, we all know he’s my favorite (I could do without the other two, frankly).

Last thing I knew we were all together enjoying a nice family Christmas.

See how happy we were?

Then, boom, gone.

What did I do to deserve this?

I suspect it might have something to with that new miniature owner. But you all need to understand that it doesn’t count as stealing his food if he is the one to reach down to give it to me! And licking it off his face? Well, once it’s on his face it’s no good to him, now is it? I’m just helping. And yes, sure, one time I accidentally bit his hand going for a cracker, but it was a mistake and I served my time out in the yard and learned a valuable lesson.

If you want to know the truth, my owners have not paid enough attention to me since that little guy came along. So really, I should be the ones punishing them. But I miss them anyway. The lady who usually tags along with the little guy is here tagging along with me now. She lets me sleep under the covers with her so I guess she’s alright. And I hear she also saved me from having to go live in a house with other dogs, because she knows how much I hate other dogs. So that’s good at least, but I’d still like my owners to come back, even the little one. Please tell them that whatever I did, I’m very sorry.

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an unwanted diagnosis

I’ve always found it difficult to know what information about my life I should scatter out into the sea of the Internet. For some people — the ones who share that they’re hungry for a sandwich, and then that they went to get a sandwich, and then that the sandwich was so amazing — this isn’t a concern. If something is going on, they just blog or update their Facebook status about it. There’s a nice simplicity to that, and while some whine about having to drudge through the minutiae of other people’s lives in their Facebook feeds, I actually find it quite interesting. But that’s when it comes to other people. Me, I’m a bit more private than that. I like to think of my Internet presence as a highlights reel rather than a play-by-play. I try not to stick everything in — just the good stuff.

But there’s my dilemma. Life isn’t just about the good stuff; bad creeps in occasionally too. And how am I to handle that bad stuff online? I faced that question last March when my dad passed away, and I’m facing it again now. Not knowing how much I want to reveal, I’ve opted so far to say nothing at all. But that hasn’t really been working. There’s a difference between not disclosing every little thing and intentionally holding back the most important thing. Holding back the most important thing feels not only dishonest but also uncomfortable. And so I guess (at least for me) that’s when a lowlight becomes scatter-worthy.

Here’s what has been going on.*

January 1: Andy found a lump that he promptly had examined by the Embassy doctor, who didn’t think it was anything serious.

January 3: The doctor arranged for blood tests and a sonogram to be done in Cotonou just in case.

January 4: The results were analyzed both by the Embassy doctor and the Regional Medical Officer; neither thought there was cause for worry. Still, Andy and I remained concerned. My dad’s fairly recent death of throat cancer was fresh in my mind, and Andy lost his mom when he was little to colon cancer too. To us, a lump meant cancer, and the possibility of cancer — however tiny — was too serious to ignore. Fortunately the Regional Medical Officer approved a medevac for Andy for further evaluation. Flynn and I were approved to fly back the the U.S. too.

January 10: We arrived in D.C.

January 11: Within the first five minutes of Andy’s appointment, a urologist at George Washington University diagnosed him with testicular cancer.

January 12: Andy underwent surgery to get rid of two cancerous tumors. They were sent for biopsy to determine specifically what kind of cells they contained.

January 18: Andy had a CT scan to see whether and where the cancer had spread.

January 20: Nine days after the diagnosis of cancer — awful days of waiting, worrying, and fearing the worst — the results from blood tests, biopsy, and CT scan were finally all in. And the news was good. In fact, given the circumstances, it was the best possible news we could have received: his cancer was both the less dangerous kind and was caught before it had spread anywhere else. The survival rate for this sort of thing (with proper follow-up care) is essentially 100%.

We are all so happy, especially this little one who actually just moved on from his incessant muttering of “Mama” to a brand new word: “Dada.” Coincidence? I think not.

Though we have the diagnosis and prognosis, there are still many unknowns.

What follow-on treatment will we decide is best? Andy might undergo a low dose of radiation or chemo to slash the odds of recurrence from 15% down to virtually none, or he might just have CT scans and blood tests regularly for the next few years to monitor the situation, and only go the radiation or chemo route if that becomes necessary. (Because his cancer was the less dangerous, slow growing kind, this is perfectly safe.) When we decide on the best follow-on treatment, how long will it take? And what will I do work-wise during that time? After treatment, will Andy be medically cleared to return to Cotonou, or will I have to find an assignment somewhere else? What will become of Andy’s spot on the Foreign Service Register? Appointments Monday and Tuesday with an oncologist and then a radiation oncologist will allow us to start tackling these unknowns.

For now, we’re focusing on the one thing we do know: when all is said and done, it looks like Andy will be okay.

* Posted with Andy’s okay, of course. He says hello and thanks for reading, but he’s still enjoying the “I have cancer” excuse to justify lazing around all day and basking in decent bandwidth and the wonders of Hulu; as a result he has no free time to actually compose a blog entry himself.

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soda

You can get soda in cans and plastic bottles here, but it’s pricey — almost two dollars for a can of Coke Zero, for instance, and about five dollars for a two liter bottle. Regular coke is cheaper, maybe a dollar for a can and a few dollars for a two liter bottle. Still, the price isn’t the only problem. There’s also no way to recycle cans and bottles, which makes it hard for me to justify buying them. The most economical and environmentally friendly way to stock up on soda for your house is to use glass bottles. It’s a small investment up front because you buy the bottles, but refilling them costs only about 30 cents or so. And they’ll be used over and over again.

Further information from a really interesting article about Coke’s presence on the continent: “In Africa, most soft drinks are sold in returnable glass bottles. In Coke’s plants they are refilled as many as 70 times each before they’re recycled, depending how far the bottler chooses to stretch the glass. Returnable bottles help keep prices down so the company can reach more of what it calls ‘economically diverse’ customers. Consumers, in effect, pay only for the liquid in the bottle.”

You pay for the liquid in the bottle if you drink the Coke on site and leave the bottle behind, which a lot of people do. But if you want to bring the bottles home with you, you must buy them. Bottles are sold by crates of 24, like this:

When empty, you bring your crate back to one of many bottling shops around town where you swap your empty bottles for freshly filled ones.

And freshly filled ones are delicious, if I do say so myself. There’s nothing like soda from a glass bottle (not to mention real sugar rather than corn syrup), which is why we’ve already consumed, well, quite a few. We’ve been saving the bottle caps, and I’m a little scared to see how many of them we have by the end of our two years here…

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the fight

The Friday before Christmas I came home early to find my nanny and my housekeeper in the foyer screaming at one another. Seven-month-old Flynn, who like usual was secured to the nanny’s back, was watching the whole scene wide-eyed. I wiggled him off the nanny and into my arms.

Much to my surprise, the yelling did not stop at the sight of me. The women did not apologize and, embarrassed, stumble back to their separate jobs, as I would have expected. Instead, the screaming intensified. I was here to act as judge. They would each present their case and I could decide which of them was truly awful.

She locked me out of the bathroom. She acts like she’s too good to eat any food I cook. She only cooks food she knows I won’t eat. She doesn’t say hello to me in the morning. She purposefully slams the door loudly so the baby will wake up. Such accusations – each of which was accompanied by a long and convoluted story — continued for a half hour, me watching the whole scene wide-eyed just as Flynn had been before.

Let me be perfectly clear. This wasn’t a lively discussion. It was screaming. Thirty minutes of it — of two grown women, screaming like children.

Finally Flynn started fussing. “Sorry,” I said, “I need to feed him.” I hustled off to the kitchen to prepare a bottle, relieved that I had an excuse to extricate myself from this awful situation that for some inexplicable reason I hadn’t extricated myself from before. However, the women and their screaming followed. I let it continue for ten minutes before I finally interrupted.

“Okay,” I said slowly, in my rusty French. “Here’s what I want to say. I know my French is not perfect, but I understand the majority of what you’re telling me. It seems there are a lot of problems between you two. I don’t need to know all the little details about these problems. What I want to know is this: what are you asking from me?”

They both stood silent for a moment before the conversation began again – slowly and calmly this time, in a manner that made me think my question would soon be addressed. But before long voices and tensions rose, and then again I was simply listening to screamed accusations. This time they were mostly coming from the nanny. The housekeeper comes to work late. She leaves for three hours in the middle of the day. She doesn’t work unless you’re here to see.

The housekeeper began to defend herself, but at this point I was done. I didn’t care about who was or wasn’t telling the truth. I cared that this argument was happening in front of my son and that I’d somehow allowed it to continue this long in my presence.

“Look,” I said, “I’m done for today. It’s a holiday weekend. I came home early to spend time with Flynn. I’m done listening. And you are both done working. We’re all done.”

And with that I took my baby upstairs to his room where I stayed until both of them left. Is this what it had come to? Hiding out in my own home? I decided at that moment that I could not leave Flynn in a house with two women who so obviously hated one another. Even if there was no future screaming (which I doubted) there would certainly be tension, and that wasn’t okay. One of them would have to go, and although the nanny certainly wasn’t blameless in this fight, it couldn’t be her. Flynn loved her, and we liked and trusted her. This whole thing seemed very out of character. The housekeeper, on the other hand, had never been great. I would never fire her based on the nanny’s accusations, but a lot of the nanny’s accusations confirmed suspicions we already had.

When Andy came home and heard the story, he agreed. After the holiday weekend we talked with Human Resources at the Embassy to learn about the process for letting someone go. Then, after work, we braced ourselves for a difficult conversation. Andy felt sick as we waited for the housekeeper to finish her shower. I paced around in the kitchen. Neither of us has been in a position before to so negatively impact another person’s life. We felt awful about it. We wanted to change our minds, but we didn’t because we felt more awful about the idea of not doing right by Flynn.

Let’s just say the conversation did not go well. There were objections and protests. “I don’t accept this,” she said, throwing the letter we prepared back at us. Then her kids peeked their heads into the doorway. Her kids being at our house so often without our knowledge or permission was one of the problems, but still, I didn’t want to fire anyone in front of their kids. But they stayed. Then she called her husband, and he came over too.

She asked how she was supposed to feed her kids without a job — with those very kids standing right there, staring at me. Rationally I reminded myself that she quit her last job with an Embassy family because she didn’t like the work conditions, so if she were really concerned with feeding her family she probably wouldn’t have done that. I knew her husband had a stable job with another Embassy family. I knew we gave her a generous Christmas bonus as well as a generous severance. Rationally, I knew we gave her plenty of buffer to find a new job and that we did all we could to make sure those kids were fed.

We tried our best to explain our position. We apologized. But after an hour of explanations and protests, again, we decided we were done. “This is not a conversation for the whole family,” Andy finally said. “And it’s not a negotiation. We have already made our decision. It’s done.”

In the week since then, there has been a noticeable difference in the mood at our home. The nanny is clearly happier. Even though we now have to cook our own dinners and do our own dishes, we feel far less stress in the evenings. And, interestingly, the house is really just as clean as always. Letting the housekeeper go was the right decision my kid — I’m sure about that — so why can’t I help but think about hers?

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to the market

After an unsuccessful first attempt I finally returned to the famous Dantokpa market this weekend, this time with a few people who actually knew the way. It was a Dantokpa 101 sort of excursion — we stayed for only about an hour and focused on the fabric section — but it was fun, and I think I could maybe even find my own way back in the future. Unfortunately I didn’t come away with any good photos to show off to you this time. I only brought my cheap point and shoot camera, and it couldn’t ever figure out where to focus, which is actually as good of a description as any of what the Dantokpa experience is like. Imagine people crowded shoulder to shoulder. Imagine many languages you don’t know. Imagine women bustling past carrying pretty much anything you can think of on their heads (example: dozens of chickens). Imagine bright colors. Imagine strong smells.

Will Flynn soon be sporting some African outfits? Stay tuned!

 

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christmas

We hope your day was as fun as Flynn’s!

We kept Andy’s family Christmas Eve tradition of chili, and then my Christmas morning tradition of cinnamon rolls. Usually we opt for the ready-to-bake variety, but this year out of necessity we went the homemade route. After a record-breaking four hours of present opening on Christmas morning (open a few presents, deal with baby meltdown, repeat) we took a long nap before dinner with the Embassy crowd. I couldn’t bring myself to go to the beach, as is local tradition. That still just seems wrong.

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casa del papa

Before we even arrived in Benin we were hearing about a fabulous beach resort about an hour from Cotonou called Casa del Papa. We’ve been meaning to visit for a while, but it didn’t happen until last weekend, when I had a festival to attend for work in a city nearby. Andy and I packed up Flynn (and his ridiculous number of necessary supplies) and headed off.

These lovely little bungalows have porches looking out on the ocean. Unfortunately this time around we picked a room on the lagoon side of the resort. We’d heard the ocean side was nicer, but we didn’t really care whether our windows looked out to lagoon or ocean. However, we hadn’t known that the rooms on the lagoon side don’t have porches. Darn. Lesson learned.

A waving red flag told us that it wasn’t safe to swim in the ocean, but that was okay because there were three pools surrounded by lounge chairs. Even better.

Bar service was available at the pool, and then meals were served at this outdoor restaurant. I enjoyed a delicious seafood pasta that wasn’t even all that overpriced.

Since we stayed for less than 24 hours this time around we only enjoyed the pool, but there are also canoes, kayaks, tennis, mini golf, bikes, four-wheelers… plenty to do to fill a weekend.

While nice, it’s not exactly a four-star resort. (The management realizes they should supply shampoo in the bathrooms, but it comes in tiny bottles that have clearly been used again and again for years, for instance.) Still, we’ll take it. We’re already planning another longer visit  in February when my mom is in town. And yes, we’ll be shelling out the extra $20/night for a porch where we can sit listening to crashing waves.

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santa in benin

I’ll admit I was feeling a little down over the last few weeks as I saw Santa picture after Santa picture take over my Facebook news feed. It’s hard to be away from family and from the United States in general during the Christmas season, especially when you’re  somewhere that flip flops and summer dresses are appropriate attire. No snow, no pine trees, no peppermint hot chocolate. It just doesn’t feel very Christmas-y. And to make matters worse, poor Flynn wouldn’t even get to have a Santa picture from his very first Christmas.

Well, guess what!

I was out grocery shopping yesterday at Erevan, the giant supermarket I’ve written about before, and what did I find? Santa! Flynn was home with Andy, but I high tailed it out of there immediately to fetch him. Back at Erevan, we produced this beauty, which is possibly the most amazing first Santa picture there ever was, if I do say so myself:

Foreign Service friends, can you compete? If we stick with this career path I imagine there will be many more non-traditional milestone pictures to come.

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fast food

Back home I’m not a huge fan of fast food, and I’m even less of a fan of chain restaurants. However, your priorities change when you live in West Africa. I couldn’t be more excited that a South African fast food chain just opened up shop in Cotonou. Actually, it seems to be three separate chain restaurants located in the same building, like a miniature mall food court, minus the mall. There’s Debonaires Pizza, which also has subs and chicken wings; Steers, which specializes in burgers and sandwiches; and an ice cream joint whose name I can’t remember.

Andy’s over in the corner ordering pizza — surprise, surprise.

Those of you reading in the United States cannot possibly appreciate how amazing it is to have a restaurant that looks, well, like this:

It’s definitely a nice respite from ordinary life in Benin, which entails things like, oh, having to navigate through a herd of cows.

Score one for the cows then, but score one for us later as we ate delicious, delicious burgers. They were much tastier than the pizza, but since the pizza is half the price of other pizza options in town, we’ll probably be eating it again too.

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presents

“Should we move some of the Christmas presents to the closet?” Andy asked last night.

Flynn isn’t old enough yet for Santa, so there’s no need for a big reveal on Christmas morning. Because of this our tradition for now is to place gifts under the tree as they arrive in Amazon boxes or care packages from grandparents. They serve as our holiday decoration.

As the pile of wrapping paper- and ribbon-covered boxes grows into a mound, we’ve both started to feel a little uncomfortable about it. We can’t help but see it through the eyes of the two Beninese women who work in our house every day and are watching it grow right alongside us. Marie, Flynn’s nanny, helps open up and then break down the boxes. Bernadette, our housekeeper, is careful not to disturb the presents as she mops the floors. Both women have children themselves, and while I don’t know what Christmas mornings look like at their homes, I’m fairly confident their piles of presents are a little different.

Last night before she left for the day Bernadette made a comment about the gifts. I think she said something about it being a lot of presents for one little baby, but I couldn’t totally understand her French over Flynn’s crying and Abbey’s barking. I asked her to repeat herself but by then she thought better of it. Instead she just shook her head and said never mind, that see would see me on Monday.

It was after I told Andy about that exchange that he asked if we should maybe move some of the presents to a closet.

We’ve never been entirely comfortable being on the more fortunate side of the “have” and “have less” divide. There’s a lot of guilt. When I feel sorry for myself for working long hours, I remember that however long I work, Marie, who is taking care of Flynn while I’m gone, is working longer. And her salary, while generous by local standards, is a miniscule fraction of mine.

Now I feel guilty about the presents too. While the pile isn’t necessarily excessive by American standards – especially since my mom readily admits she went for quantity over quality, and that many of the gifts are garage sale finds – it must seem ridiculously extravagant to Marie and Bernadette. (And just wait until they see the finished pile; there are an embarrassing number of packages still on the way.) I imagine they consider their own children and think it’s not fair.

I agree. It’s not fair. In my opinion, little about wealth is. There’s a small element of intelligence and hard work that factor into the mix, but I believe luck of the draw in terms of what position in society you are born into and what breaks you get in life play much bigger roles.

While I was living in New York City I tutored a young boy on Manhattan’s notoriously wealthy Upper East Side. His parents, while smart and hardworking, were no more smart and hardworking than me. Yet they were born into a very different faction of American society than myself, raised in a small farming down in the Midwest. After our sessions his mom would make small talk with me, trying to treat me like a peer. She’d compliment something I was wearing and ask where it came from. “Oh, T.J. Maxx? I love that store!” she would say. I knew perfectly well that nothing in her closet came from T.J Maxx. People who live in 10 million dollar townhouses don’t shop at T.J. Maxx, and that’s okay. It didn’t make her a bad person. If I were in her position I would probably shop wherever she did too. It wasn’t that she had money that irritated me but that she tried to pretend that she didn’t.

The other thing I remember about that mom is that she was generous, but not to a point that felt like pity. When it came time to calculate my hours and write me a check, she always rounded up. When the holidays rolled around, she would think of me in her gift-giving, offering a present that was special and not something I would or could have bought for myself, but also not embarrassingly extravagant. I appreciated that.

Come to think of it, I had been modeling that mom’s behavior in my treatment of Marie and Bernadette. I round up when calculating their overtime. I gave holiday bonuses and have ordered gifts to give their children, things my Beninese colleagues suggested the kids would appreciate – a doll for Bernadette’s young daughter, a Nerf gun for her young son, and nice backpacks for Marie’s two teenagers.

But unfortunately I now see that I’ve also been modeling the less-than-ideal behavior of that mom, trying to pretend like we are all in the same boat. I should stop asking them for suggestions about restaurants or weekend activities; I’m probably not going to go to the same places they do, and I should stop trying to pretend otherwise. I’m not fooling anyone. And I wouldn’t be fooling anyone by moving Christmas presents to the closet. This is my reality right now, and as long as I’m generous and kind to those around me, that’s nothing to feel guilty about (or so I keep telling myself).

Besides, wealth is relative. Marie and Bernadette both have food to eat and roofs over their heads, which makes them a lot better off than many. In certain situations perhaps they feel guilty for having so much. As for me, while I’m on the “have” end of the spectrum today, that could change quickly — as quickly as receiving an onward assignment to, say, Paris.

Posted in Benin, FS Life, Holiday | Tagged , , , , | 8 Comments