a letter to the future

Dear Flynn,

I hate that these two years of your life aren’t being recorded for permanent safekeeping in your that little noggin of yours. The most this experience will likely ever be to you is a fun fact you keep tucked away in your pocket to pull out for those “tell us one thing we wouldn’t guess about you” sort of games at summer camp or your first week of college.

Benin? I imagine your new friends asking incredulously. Where in the world is that?

Then again, if we stick with this lifestyle and you spend all your formulative years in far corners of the world, you’ll likely have even more interesting facts tucked away in those pockets, and maybe Benin won’t ever come out at all. That’s even more sad.

Though you won’t remember your time here, I firmly believe it’s shaping you into the person you will one day be. I believe that loving and being loved by all sorts of people of varying backgrounds and skin shades will allow you to respect and value everyone equally in your adult life.

I believe that hearing and starting to speak a handful of languages is flexing your brain muscles in a way that will be evident long after your knowledge of these specific languages fades away.

And I believe that eating anything and everything and rolling around on the ground who knows where is helping you build the finest immune system a little American boy could possibly have, you lucky son of a gun.

Because you won’t remember Benin yourself, I’ve decided to take a moment to collect some memories on your behalf and scatter them here on the interwebs for you to hopefully discover at some point in your future.

Flynn, I wish you could remember your great fortune of living a fraction of a mile from an international airport. Being a boy, you are naturally obsessed with all things that go. You know, before I had kids, I thought these sort of stereotypical gender preferences were forced upon little ones by their parents, but I assure you that you were demanding cars and trucks and planes before I bought you a single toy rendition.

Luckily you get to watch a dozen or two airplanes take off each and every day. You run to the window and sometimes out to the front porch at the sound of them, wave your finger up to the sky and say, “Airplane! Airplane?” You turn to me with wide eyes, like you’re questioning whether it could it really be so, whether you could really be so lucky as to see yet another real live airplane right above your very head.

And then of course there is the dilapidated airplane a few blocks from our house, abandoned as the result of some sort of customs dispute, as the story goes. You constantly ask to take walks to see it, and when I tell you no, sometimes you try to sneak out the gate and bolt down the street to go yourself. Luckily I’m still bigger and faster than you.

Flynn, I wish you could remember living by the ocean. Your dad first dipped your toes in it several days after we arrived, and since then it’s been a huge part of your little life.

Your bedroom window opens to the sea, and as you get your diaper changed you look out and tell us about the boats or the sand or the waves. Although you still call the ocean a swimming pool, you talk incessantly about the beach and sand in both English and French, probably because you visit it bucket and shovel in tow multiple times a day.

Sometimes when your dad and I get home from work and you are nowhere to be found, your dad points his telescope out the window and finds you and your nanny playing a little ways down the shore. The undertow by our house is too strong for you, but on weekends we drive a bit outside of town and let you splash around in the water. You run as fast as you can into the waves until they knock you down, and then giggle.

Flynn, more than anything else I wish you could remember your nanny Marie. At first I was jealous and nervous about how much time she got to spend with you. I feared you’d love her more than me and your dad. But somehow everything worked out. She never took our places. You love Mom. You love Dad. You love Marie too, and she loves you as if you’re her own. In fact, she refused to take paid time off when your grandparents came to visit until she spent a week getting to know them and finally decided they could be trusted with you.

Marie carries you in the traditional African way, tied up on her back in bright cloth, and this is your very favorite place in the world. Even now at two years old you hate to fall asleep anywhere other than au dos.

You spend your days with Marie going on walks, coloring, dancing, singing, playing; I am constantly amazed by the unlimited amount of energy she seems to have to make your life fun. You light up at the sight of her, but you probably light up even more at the sight of her son and daughter, who I’m fairly certain you think are your brother and sister. They build block towers for you to knock over, teach you how to kick a soccer fall, and let you climb on their backs for horsie rides. You speak beautiful French with them all, and when they try to say something to you in English you just laugh. You know that French is the special secret language you all share.

Marie told me once that after we leave she might try to find a housekeeper rather than a nanny job, because it’s just too hard to grow to love a child and then say goodbye. I get it. To be honest with you, the thing I’m dreading most about leaving Benin is your last à tout à lheure with Marie.

There’s more, of course. The goats and horses you greet on your walks around town. Your play dates with kids from all over the world. The mosquito net that you get in and out of more seamlessly than your dad and I are able. The giant lizards you chase through our yard. The guards who come find you for a high five when reporting for duty. The ladies at the nearby bakery who all greet you by name.

You’ve had a good life here, Flynn. This country has been kind to you. Though you won’t actually remember it, I hope in the future your time here means something to you.

Love,

Mom

Posted in Baby, Benin, FS Life, Personal, Toddler | 17 Comments

making lemonade in london

One of the benefits diplomats get when signing up to serve their country overseas is — as much as possible — continued access to the sort of healthcare they would have if they were still living in America. Of course, a modern healthcare system can’t be perfectly replicated in all corners of the world. Should we have found ourselves needing an ambulance or an emergency room while in Benin, well, we would have been out of luck. But when Andy needed more sophisticated medical attention than he could get in Benin last year, we were sent back to the U.S. And recently, when I needed to have something checked out that couldn’t be done here, Flynn and I were sent off to London.

If we learned anything from Andy’s health ordeal last year it’s that you just never know when something serious will strike, so we decided that as big of a hassle and as big of an expense as it would be, it was important for Andy to take a few days off work and fly out to London to be there for my appointment too. Plus, an unexpected family reunion would be pretty nice, and might help us better push through these last two months of our six months apart. Lemonade from lemons, and all.

If we were posted to Embassy London we could eat lunch in this park every day. Sigh.

It was a whirlwind trip. We arrived Thursday. I had appointments Friday morning. We found out everything was fine that afternoon and were booked on the next available flight out, which was Sunday. But we squeezed in as much family time as we could. We didn’t do anything particularly special. Mostly we just hung out.

We hung out on trains, Flynn’s current obsession.

"Flynn go choo choo train?" Yep, buddy. Sure thing.

We hung out in restaurants.

For me?

We hung out in parks.

Regents park.

And let’s not forget that a) I’m pregnant, and b) I’m living somewhere with limited dining options, so we also of course spent a large amount of time chasing my many food cravings.

Mmm.

Did you know there’s a Krispy Kreme in the Selfridges Food Hall off Oxford Street? Well, there is. Don’t ask how many times I visited it.

Posted in FS Life, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

birthday parties

I am not the sort of mom who scours Pinterest for amazing DIY project ideas for my kid’s birthday parties.

I am wholly impressed by those moms and the cute things they manage to create. I will gladly attend their parties, and I will sincerely ooh and aah over their achievements. But me, I’m the sort of mom who heads to Target and neighborhood bakeries for the best money can buy, and sets it all up in the best play place money can rent out.

Unfortunately, though, when you live someplace like Benin, with no Target and a cultural aversion to sweets, and no play places to speak of, you have to turn to plan B.

So Flynn’s second birthday party would happen at our house, which I’d have to do my best to turn into a play place.

Toys.

Future parties will undoubtedly be better, because after being inspired by a conversation about impressive yet portable play things with some more seasoned Foreign Service parents, Andy and I have already decided that when we get settled in the U.S. we’re investing in a) a bouncy castle, and b) a mini roller coaster. And, let’s be honest, as a tandem couple we can ship a pretty obscene amount of stuff to our next post with us, so my guess is we’ll amass many more large play things during our year stateside that we don’t even know exist yet.

But, for now…

More toys.
Soccer field.

There were a few Target purchased touches after all, shipped in from the grandparents.

Decor.
The calm before the kids.

We even had a petting zoo!

Dog jail.

A few months ago, after admiring a Mickey Mouse cake at one of his friend’s birthday parties, Flynn told me matter of factly that for his birthday he wanted Cookie Monster cupcakes. This was only appropriate since at my own Cookie Monster themed second birthday party I apparently had cookie trees and a real costumed Cookie Monster (whose presence, as the story goes, made me cry). With no neighborhood bakery to scour for cupcakes, off to Pinterest I went. And I threw in some Elmo cupcakes for good measure.

Cupcakes.

Because I happened to have 16 pounds of baker’s chocolate that I wanted to use up before leaving post, I made the cupcakes from scratch. (Fudge too. And I’m still not through with that darn baker’s chocolate.) And when my two tubs of icing I made Andy ship from the U.S. proved not to be enough, I made the icing from scratch too. Definitely not projects I would have undertaken with a Target nearby.

Cupcakes.
Cakes.
For me?

Last year, there were so few littles ones in the embassy community, I was literally telling people I barely knew to bring babies and toddlers I had never even met. This year, however, with an influx of little ones at post, more than a dozen friends and all their parents showed up to help Flynn celebrate. I won’t publicly post photos of other people’s kids, though, so instead I’ll introduce you to some of our more, well, plush party guests.

Elmo is ready to party.

I guess I didn’t get a photo of it, but for food I whipped out the big guns: sandwiches made from a real, authentic American honey baked spiral ham shipped in from the commissary at the embassy in Ghana. Super easy yet also impressive (at least in the context of our current hardship post) — this is much more my usual style.

Mom & Flynn.

Much to Flynn’s chagrin he had to pose for some obligatory photos before the guests arrived.

Who's birthday is it? Flynn's birthday!

Since they’re only two, there were no party games or activities — just lots of sugary goodness making already wild kids even more wild.

Probably Flynn’s favorite part of the party was when everyone joined in a chorus of “Happy Birthday,” a song which he’s been happily singing to himself on a regular basis ever since he heard it at that same Mickey Mouse loving friend’s party a few months back. I was holding him so couldn’t see myself, but I hear his face lit up. And today, the day after the party, he keeps going back into the room where “Happy Birthday” was sung and busting out in song again himself.

Blowing out candles.

It was a good party, though it would have been better if Andy could have been there. Maybe in a Cookie Monster costume.

Happy birthday, big guy.

 

Posted in food, FS Life, Holiday, Toddler | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

home

Despite running into his dad’s arms at the airport and enjoying a giggle packed few days of family togetherness during an unexpected last minute reunion in London, Flynn also happened to tell us repeatedly that he was ready to go home.

Hugs.

Home? What is this home of which you speak?

That giant house back in Benin that I never got around to totally unpacking doesn’t really feel like much of a home to me, and yet I suppose it’s the only home my toddler has ever really known. It’s where his toys, his dog, his friends, his nanny, and the vast majority of his memories are. So how exactly will I explain to him in six weeks that it’s not going to be his home anymore? His toys and dog will come along, but the friends, the nanny, and the room he knows as his own will stay behind. He’ll adjust to his new home in Virginia, I’m sure. Life will go on. He’ll be okay. But then, in a year, we’ll be packing up and moving homes again. And two years after that, home will change once more.

To be clear, I don’t think moving frequently damages a child. In fact, I believe the cultural awareness and adaptability gained as a result of frequent moves – particularly to new countries – is in fact a huge gift. If I ever come to think otherwise, well, we will not hesitate to leave this job behind. So while I don’t think moving frequently is bad, it does certainly make the question of home a complicated one.

As he grows up, what will Flynn think his home to be?

Will the concept of home even matter?

I don’t know the answer to these questions just yet, but for now we decided to explain to Flynn that he was indeed home, because home is wherever Mom and Dad are. He didn’t seem convinced, though. He seemed pretty sure that home was back where his dog and toys were waiting.

Oh, two year olds.

Posted in FS Life, Toddler | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

countdown

That awesome moment when you think about placing an Amazon.com order but don’t because you realize there’s a chance that it wouldn’t reach you in time…

No new books for us for a while.

I don’t have a firm departure date yet. In the Foreign Service world it’s administratively complicated to plan a departure before you know where you’re going next, which I of course just found out. But I probably have less than two months to go.

In the Foreign Service world, two months is not a lot of time at all. There are pack outs to be scheduled. There are plane tickets to be booked. There are travel orders to be gotten. There are bridge assignments to be arranged. There are home leaves to be planned. There are houses to be cleaned out. There are evaluations to be written. There are pets to be vaccinated and documented. There are bills to be settled. There are cars to be sold. There are goodbyes to be said. And of course, there is much, much paperwork to be done.

I’ll be so busy that the two months will likely pass quickly. Good thing. There are certain things I’ll miss about Benin after I’m gone, to be sure, but my frame of mind right now is that the end can’t come soon enough. This geographically single working mom thing, while pregnant no less, is not exactly my idea of a good time.

Good thing he's cute.
Posted in Benin, FS Life | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

if taking a toddler to london…

As you know from Flynn’s valentine greetings, we ventured to London in February. This blog post has been hanging over me since then, but 1) we weren’t ready quite yet to announce the official reason for the trip (pregnancy check ups), and 2) all of my awesome photos somehow ended up on the computer that Andy took with him back to DC, and I was hoping to figure out a solution to that. Alas, I haven’t, so you’ll have to settle for the iPhone photo version.

Here’s what I learned along the way about taking a toddler to London:

1) No matter how much you hated those awful touristy hop-on-hop-off bus tours in your pre-baby life, when you’re traveling with a toddler, just do it. Also, no matter how great you think it will be to sit on the top deck, just don’t do it. Here we posed for the obligatory top deck photo, and then, as soon as Flynn expressed the modicum of interest in diving overboard (which of course was pretty much immediately), went back downstairs.

Someone wasn’t happy about the move, but you know what? That someone’s not the boss.

As far as I can tell there were two major companies. We went with Big Bus Tours and it was perfectly fine. (The other major company is the Original Tour. Stay away from companies besides these two; they don’t come as often or stop as many places.)

2. The bus tour also includes a free boat ride, always a hit with the toddler set. Having to sit still waiting for the boat to arrive, though, not as much of a hit.

3. Think twice before visiting the aquarium, as least if you’re traveling in the winter. Sure, it was a nice (albeit expensive) place. That’s probably why every person I asked for travel tips said, “Oh, you must visit the aquarium.” That was the problem. Every tourist in London that day must have been told by someone they must visit the aquarium. It’s probably better in the summer when everyone’s not searching for an indoor activity. But still. You’ve been warned.

If you do happen to visit the acquarium, note that the London Eye — a giant ferris wheel –is right there too. I decided Flynn was a little too young and I was a little too cold to fully enjoy it, but if you’re interested you can get combo tickets.

4. You know what I would do instead of the acquarium? The zoo. They also have acquarium like things there. Hello, penguins.

Having grown up in St. Louis where the zoo is free, it was hard for me to stomach the hefty entrance fee, but in the end it was definitely worth it. This is a phenomenal zoo, and a lot of the things that usually cost more are included in your admission ticket, like for instance the butterfly house.

In addition to animals, there are good casual restaurants and food stands. There are merry go rounds.

There are ride on toys.

There’s a giant playground.

There’s absolutely enough to do to spend a whole day.

5. The zoo is located in Regents Park, which is a worthy place to visit in and of itself. After being strapped into his stroller or carrier, your little guy is going to love the freedom to just run. Especially when he’s running after ducks. There are playgrounds too.

6. There are even more playgrounds in Hyde Park, though. Every time you turn around you’re running into another one. Plus there are lots of ducks there as well. And boats. And horseback riding.

7. We also got a lot of recommendations for the Science Museum, Natural History Museum, and Victoria & Albert Museum — all located in the same area, near the famed Harrods Department Store. The V&A seems to have some arts and crafts activities that might be good for older kids, but there wasn’t much of interest for us. The Natural History Museum was a bit of a let down too. Flynn’s a little too young to understand that bones are part of the dinosaurs, so that exhibit hall was kind of a bust. Luckily he did get excited about some real stuffed animals.

The science museum was mediocre too. For a kid who’s obsessed with all forms of transportation I expected more of a reaction to a room full of airplanes, but it seems that airplanes parts and old fashioned planes aren’t really his thing. So it goes. There is a small learning and play area for toddlers, though.

None of these museums in and of itself is wonderful for toddlers in my opinion, but since they’re all so close and free, so it’s easy to hop between them, it’s still worth a trip.

8. Bring a stroller. Even if your toddler is a good walker, he’s going to get tired. And you’re going to get tired of keeping him from running into traffic. Even if you’re usually a baby carrier, he’s not exactly a baby anymore and is going to get heavy fast.

9. One great free activity: Hamley’s Toy Shop in Oxford Circus. It’s a London institution, apparently the world’s largest toy store, with seven floors worth of play things. There are lots of interactive displays, staff member demos, etc. And by some miracle we even managed to escape without having to buy anything.

10. Another pleasant place where he can get out and run around without fear of traffic is the waterfront promenade, the Queen’s Walk. When we were there in the dead of winter there all kinds of kid friendly street performers — clowns, guys with bubble machines, face painters, blue and tin men — so I can only imagine what it would be like in the summer…

11. If you, like me, are always looking for affordable but cute kids clothes that not everyone else back in the U.S. is going to have, check out Primark and Marks & Spencer.

12. Finally, a word on food. I found it easiest to grab delicious prepacked meals at Marks & Spencer (the food shop in the basement of the big department store, or a stand alone cafe) or Pret a Manger, both found everywhere, and then settle in on a park bench to eat. But maybe your toddler sits still in restaurants better than mine does. In that case, I hear the Wagamama chain is kid friendly, and that Giraffe is the place to go for pancakes.

Posted in Toddler, Travel | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

drumroll please…

This post has been a long time coming.

It’s been over three years since Andy started the process to become a Foreign Service Officer himself, and that whole time the question has been hanging over us: Will this whole thing really work out? Will we really manage to be posted somewhere together? There have been many points along the way when we believed the answer to be “no.”

Here’s a refresher:

  • After Andy passed the oral assessment and found himself on the Management Register, we were told our best option was for him to defer until after I finished my tour in Cotonou; syncing up our tours then would be no problem, we were assured. As soon as I knew where I was going next the powers that be would tell Andy when he should join himself in order to get a post at the same place, which would be reserved for him.
  • After French, maternity leave, and some months in Cotonou, the rules about tandem assignments changed. Now there would be a problem syncing up our tours. Maybe we would get the same post. Maybe we wouldn’t. There were no guarantees. Andy would just have to join and see what happened.
  • Andy got cancer, so we forgot about the whole tandem quest for a while.
  • Andy got better.
  • I bid on my second tour, with the added complication of Andy not having a full medical clearance. Still, all the regulations led us to believe he would have it back in time for my next tour, so our strategy: getting me a post with tandem potential. I did not get a post with much tandem potential. Things did not look good.
  • Andy fought to get his full medical clearance back, which he’d need in order to join the Foreign Service himself — worldwide availability, and all. He was denied, he appealed, and after a lot of headaches and stress, finally won.
  • Despite the slim odds of being posted together, we decided not to give up just yet. Andy would join and we would see if there was still a way to make it work — knowing that one or both of us might resign if it didn’t. We waited for the timing to be right to give us the best possible chance.
  • A few months before Andy wanted to join, he gave the powers that be a heads up. Well actually, they told him, despite the fact that you’ve been working in an embassy and have an active security clearance, we’re going to need to do your security clearance again. It might take a while.
  • Meanwhile, the federal budget was in shambles and there were no guarantees about future Foreign Service hiring. If Andy didn’t get in this particular class, who knew when the next opportunity would be (and with later classes the odds of being able to sync up our timing grew more and more slim).
  • Luckily, several wonderful colleagues helped usher Andy’s new security clearance through just in time. He started getting ready for A100.
  • We found out I was pregnant. This made us even less willing to settle for a posting apart.
  • Andy started A100 and got the good news that the CDOs wanted to help us. In fact, they were even proactive and determined which posts would work for us before our first official meeting. They would break my assignment and assign us somewhere together. The fact that me being pregnant wouldn’t allow me to arrive at that original assignment on time anyway probably didn’t hurt things, either. Unfortunately, the options about where we could be assigned together turned out to be limited and came with long separations and no guarantee that Andy would be able to be there for the birth of baby #2. I’ve known couples who have made this sacrifice, but to us, it just felt like too much.
  • Andy’s CDO presented a new idea: he could do a one-year job in D.C. and we could bid later off of a new list with different options. This wasn’t the best plan career-wise for me, as it involved a lot of time floating around in temporary assignments, but we decided it was still the best call for our family. We’d both be in D.C. for baby #2′s birth and my maternity leave, and we’d probably be able to go somewhere together after that. But still, no promises.
  • A month or so into Andy’s D.C. gig, our new bid list came out. Things looked like they just might turn out okay after all. There were a surprisingly large number of options for us. We bid, we waited hopefully,  and that brings us to now…

After all this, and after six months of separation in order for a tandem posting to even be a possibility, we’ll be reunited in D.C. for Spanish training and after that, next summer/fall, we’ll be going TOGETHER, both as consular officers, to…

GUADALAJARA!

Mexico's colonial heart.

We actually bid this #1. It took us a while to get to that point because it’s not as flashy as some of our other options, but we think it’s a great fit for our family at this stage in our lives: culturally interesting, but still full of plenty of modern comforts. And close to home.

We're all pretty happy.

 

Posted in FS Life, FSI, Tandem Issues | Tagged , , , , , | 15 Comments

missing benin

Someone asked me the other day if I missed Benin. I couldn’t really answer though, because I’m not sure what the real answer is. Of course right now I miss Benin. But maybe I mostly miss Alex and Flynn. In fact, I’d go so far as to say a big part of me feels like I haven’t left Benin because a big part of me is still there. (Alex would probably argue that if this was really true, she wouldn’t have to wake up so early with Flynn every morning.)

When I really thought about it, I found that there are some things that I miss about Benin. I miss the people from the embassy who helped make my time there much more enjoyable and I miss the friendly locals who would smile at Flynn when we were out in public. I miss seeing things that I could never see back home, like a motorcycle with three passengers, one of whom was a live goat. I miss having affordable household staff who made our lives immeasurably easier and helped introduce us to local culture in a way that would have been difficult on our own. I miss our house with more bedrooms and bathrooms than we knew what to do with. I also miss looking out of Flynn’s window and seeing the beach and the ocean. I miss those small moments of triumph when you finally feel like you’ve figured something out, like when I learned to (kind of) haggle at the artisan market or when I found a better place to exchange glass bottles of soda. I miss glass bottles of soda.  Finally, I miss that surreal feeling I’d get from time to time when I’d look around and think, “I bet 2007 Andy never would have believed he’d be here.”

With the good, though, there is the bad. There are things I won’t miss about Benin. I won’t miss the added challenge that the language barrier heaped on top of everything we’d try to do. I won’t miss how frustrating the smallest tasks could sometimes become, like when I had to go to the store for the third time to pay our cable bill because the first time it was too crowded and no one would help me figure out what I needed to do, and the second time the one person who could help with my specific kind of bill was out for a three hour lunch. I won’t miss the crazy motos darting through the streets. I won’t miss the slow internet or the fact that baseball games started at 1 in the morning. And I won’t miss that helpless feeling you have when your kid is sick with a fever and has red dots all over and your power is out and your car isn’t working and the local medical care is not what you’re used to.

Like I said, there’s good and bad.

When Alex and Flynn get home in June and we’re finally together as a family again, I hope we can look back on our time in Benin fondly. I hope we can say that we learned a lot – about ourselves, about Benin, about what we’ll look for in future posts. I hope we keep those lessons in mind even as difficulties like language barriers and a sick toddler during a blackout morph from hardships into funny stories. At the same time, I hope we don’t forget to put on our rose colored glasses every once in a while to focus on the good things.

Posted in Benin, FS Life, Personal | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

bad monkey

I forgot to mention that I was attacked by a monkey.

Attacked might be a bit of a stretch since a giant metal cage separated us. But I was standing there about a foot away, taking a picture of Flynn and my mom, when the monkey leapt from the back of its cage to the front and then swiped his hand out between the bars and got me.

Flynn thought it was the funniest thing he had every seen in his whole two years of life, of course.

Uh oh Mommy, Flynn said.

At first this was just a strange and somewhat funny thing that happened. But then a few minutes later I realized the scratch had broken skin. And so I spent the rest of what was supposed to be a relaxing day at the lagoon worrying about getting rabies, and researching on my slow-loading iPhone what was worse for a pregnant person, getting a shot to protect against rabies or getting rabies itself. (Answer: both are pretty bad.)

First thing the next morning, I called the embassy doctor and got some interesting but ultimately good news.

Apparently this particular monkey has been up to no good before. The health unit actually already had its immunization records on file. No rabies, or anything else to be concerned about. Phew.

This monkey is a little nicer.

 

Posted in Benin, Travel | Tagged , , | 3 Comments